My friend Barbara who is a Peace Corps Volunteer in Guatemala came to visit me for what was going to be a fun, relaxing 2-week vacation for the both of us. The first couple of days started out fine but on our way out of Managua to Masaya everything took a turn for the worst.
Barbara and I were waiting on a fairly busy road at 10 AM for a microbus headed towards Masaya to do some shopping in the artisan markets and have lunch with my host family. A friendly Nica woman approached us and started asking about our travels, if we like Nicaragua, etc. She knew we were tourists not only because we're pasty white but we were carrying huge backpackers backpacks.
After waiting for about 10 minutes with no micros passing, a taxi pulled up and the woman offered to share a cab with us to Masaya with her and two other men. It's not uncommon to fill up a taxi to get a better rate so we did just that. The woman was seated in front, a man on one side in the backseat, Barbara in the middle, and me on the other side. The other man tried to enter on my side of the car to sandwich the two of us in the backseat and I told him no. Peace Corps had warned us about these kidnappings, identifying just that as a way to get the victims trapped in the car in a vulnerable position.
I immediately felt uncomfortable and told the driver to let us out at the nearest bus stop instead of taking us all the way to Masaya. As he slowed down to pull over, he made a quick right, slammed on the gas, and sped down a less-traveled road. The man who I wouldn't let in on my side was seated in front with the woman who had befriended us and jumped into the backseat on top of me to lock the doors. I tried to kick him away and escape and received numerous punches and was threatened with a knife, while Barbara kept surprisingly calm and did exactly what they told us.
From there we were told to keep our eyes shut for the entire time as we gave them directions as to where exactly we kept our valuables. We needed to give away pin #s to our ATM cards or else they threatened to harm us. We were told they would leave us with all our clothes, passports, and IDs, and that they only wanted money.
After about 20 minutes the woman was dropped off at a bank and we were kept hostage in the car. I remember sweating and being squished uncomfortably in the backseat, wondering if this was reality or if I was having a nightmare. We continued driving as she took money out of the machines (about $600 worth from my accounts) and made sure we weren't lying about our pins.
Thirty minutes later the three men finally let us off with our stuff in what seemed like the middle of nowhere on a dirt road in a very isolated location. They left Barb with 200 cordobas (about $10) to get a taxi and were told to get out of town (decency?). We took our stuff, hysterical, and walked for about ten minutes until we found a hotel and went inside to use the phone, despite having reservations that maybe the thieves were connected with the hotel owners.
In the end, money was stolen, our cameras, our cell phones, Barb's mp3 player, sunglasses, and a few smaller items. I'm not really so much concerned about the stolen items as I am with the hassle of not having a camera here to take pictures the rest of my service, for example. But more than anything the emotional scars this leaves me makes it scary every time I need to go into Managua for work or medical appointments. But such is life and I will be taking extra precautions to take secure taxis and remain safe.
Barbara and I are healing, slowly but surely. Peace Corps staff has been wonderful with taking care of us. We both have less than four months left in our service so we want to try to remain in-country and make the best of the rest of our time in Central America. We both have had so many positive experiences and relationships here as well and don't want this one event to ruin all the good we've built up. I still think Nicaragua is a great place with such genuinely kind and warm people, and I don't think this experience should change anyone else's opinions either.
Thanks to those of you who have been supporting me through this. You've all been great.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Monday, July 12, 2010
Cooking Nicaraguense - Nacatamales
Nacatamales are corncakes, similar to Mexican tamales, stuffed with rice, vegetables and meats. The dough is then wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. (A vegetarian version can also be made with oil instead of lard and soymeat or no meat)
2 cups Cornmeal
1/4 cup Lard
1 Onion, chopped
2 teaspoons of Sour Orange Juice or Lime
2 cups Chicken Broth (or other broth you prefer)
2 Garlic Cloves, minced
1 Green Pepper, chopped
1 Red Pepper, chopped
1 teaspoon Fresh Parsley
Fresh Mint to taste
Paprika to taste
1 pound Pork, cooked and cubed
2 Tomatoes, cubed
2 cups Potatoes, mashed
1/2 cup Rice, cooked
Ground pepper to taste
Salt to taste
10 Banana Leaves
Just cover the cornmeal with water, adding the orange juice and then cooking it at a low heat so that the hulls begin to separate. Then rinse with cold water, placing it in a pot and again covering it with water. Allow it to sit for 3 days, being sure to change the water every day. Once it has stood for 3 days, drain the corn and mash it. Now add half of the lard, plus some salt. Knead the mixture whilst slowly adding the broth until the dough is soft.
In a pan, place the rest of the lard, along with the peppers, onion, garlic, tomatoes, paprika, salt, pepper, mint and parsley. Then add the pork and other ingredients. Wash the banana leave and cut into 16 inch squares. Place a spoonful of dough in the center of each leaf square, then top with pork mixture. Carefully wrap and tie with string. Place the nacatamales in boiling water for about 30 minutes. Enjoy! (www.nicaragua.com/recipes)
2 cups Cornmeal
1/4 cup Lard
1 Onion, chopped
2 teaspoons of Sour Orange Juice or Lime
2 cups Chicken Broth (or other broth you prefer)
2 Garlic Cloves, minced
1 Green Pepper, chopped
1 Red Pepper, chopped
1 teaspoon Fresh Parsley
Fresh Mint to taste
Paprika to taste
1 pound Pork, cooked and cubed
2 Tomatoes, cubed
2 cups Potatoes, mashed
1/2 cup Rice, cooked
Ground pepper to taste
Salt to taste
10 Banana Leaves
Just cover the cornmeal with water, adding the orange juice and then cooking it at a low heat so that the hulls begin to separate. Then rinse with cold water, placing it in a pot and again covering it with water. Allow it to sit for 3 days, being sure to change the water every day. Once it has stood for 3 days, drain the corn and mash it. Now add half of the lard, plus some salt. Knead the mixture whilst slowly adding the broth until the dough is soft.
In a pan, place the rest of the lard, along with the peppers, onion, garlic, tomatoes, paprika, salt, pepper, mint and parsley. Then add the pork and other ingredients. Wash the banana leave and cut into 16 inch squares. Place a spoonful of dough in the center of each leaf square, then top with pork mixture. Carefully wrap and tie with string. Place the nacatamales in boiling water for about 30 minutes. Enjoy! (www.nicaragua.com/recipes)
Friday, July 9, 2010
Visit with my niece, Carolyn, from 6/30 - 7/7/10, by Aunt Frances
First of all, Carolina left NO stone unturned. She received and answered my million and a half questions prior to my arrival. Between her responsiveness and her regular blogging which included pictures, I felt very comfortable with her Peace Corps country from the moment I saw her beautiful face. She is an extraordinary travel planner and tourist guide!
My intention from the beginning was simply to be with her and share in her current life. Of course, we did that and more. The "sharing" of life part included: (no particular order intended)
1. meeting some of those closest to her (Norvin and others) as well as several school colleagues (Profesoras Mariela and Elizabeth);
2. living in her home and taking advantage of her hammock along with enjoying her own special homemade breakfasts (hot oatmeal and craisins/raisins) and, lest I forget, learning there how to dance the "bachata";
3. going to class with her (Profesora Carolina) and encountering the children she teaches in one of her schools along with observing her co-teaching a lesson on the balance of nature;
4.enjoying the children singing (for me) as well as the sharing in the "fruits of the earth" like sugar cane (cana), mangoes, and lovely flowers from the children and teachers in school;
5. experiencing with her the regular long bus rides she takes (and even one minibus breakdown);
6. enjoying some of her diet of pitahaya (dragon fruit), melocoton (star fruit with and without salt), gallo pinto, avocado, plantains, mango, and papaya (to name a few);
7. knowing "intimately" the long soaking rain walks she encounters;
8. meeting lizards, special birds, mosquitoes, a scorpion, cattle, dogs and their puppies, chickens and roosters with hourly night wake-up calls, hummingbirds, cows, goats, horses, geese, pigs, and ducks on a regular basis;
9. appreciating with her the affectionate and gracious nature of the Nica people; and
10. witnessing her sincere and loving commitment as she lives out one of her many dreams.
Remember "we did that and more?" The "more" part included: (order intended by dates of travel)
1.6/30-7/1 -- Touring her site and getting to know that area along with her friends there and at the nearby school (that is, after a short ("un poco") walk and a 4 hour bus ride from the airport on Wednesday. Thursday night we enjoyed a supper with one of her Peace Corps volunteers (Jocelyn) and her father (John). (And I won't mention how happy I was to see a taxi show up at her home on 7/1 afternoon with - guess what?- my bright green duffle bag). I must admit that I was prepared to pick it up in Managua on 7/7, and simply "do without." Did I forget to mention the night choruses that made me get the giggles every so often? The night concerts consisted of the following: lizards croaking; roosters crowing all through the night (which triggered my giggles and poor Carolyn getting less sleep); which woke up the dogs who started barking (and fighting or whatever) - not to mention waking up the next door puppies who decided to tell their mother they were hungry as only puppies can; which made the happy baby next door start crying - and all of this simultaneously accompanied by certified (as in real) local music. And, by the way, cold showers never felt so good as after a hot night with musical accompaniment and no change of clothes (except for the underwear I was grateful to find in my carry-on). It's amazing how "little things" really "mean a lot." Is that how that old song goes?
2. 7/2 - Off to Esteli for a 6am bus, (2 of which and about 5 hours later) we found ourselves roaming around after we traveled through Matagalpa. We stayed at Hotel La Meson; hungrily ate at a vegetarian eatery (my first soy hamburger with freshly squeezed orange juice - scrumptious!). In between our roaming we encountered a fascinating parade with a band and some special music. We were informed that this was the funeral procession of an important local official. Great sendoff, says me! In between, we luckily found a stop for a soda during a deluge of rain. As luck would have it, we got to see the end of the Uruguay/Ghana game, with Carolyn cheering for Ghana, and with my help, unfortunately, they lost. We were both in bed by 9PM anticipating a 4:45am wake-up which (is a frog croaking phone). A super bowl of wanton soup that night was "just what the doctor ordered!"
3. 7/3 - A bumpy, lengthy bus ride (are there other kinds?) took us all the way to the Miraflor Natural Reserve in Esteli. The incredibly magnificent nature along the route made me wonder how much more beauty there was still ahead for us. The hospitable guide and family provided us with a breakfast and lunch "to die for." I had pancakes and bananas in the morning and soymeat, beans, plantains, and vegetables for a late lunch. Here we hiked through the high and intermediate forest and eventually delighted in a waterfall swim area - (so, so, so refreshing that I can still feel it). The guide almost had to drag us both out because of time (walk back, lunch, bus departure - none of which I had any sense of). And before I forget, it was wonderful spending the week without a watch!!!
Anyhow, our host family, Luis, Martha, Luisa, and Carla were more than gracious - even providing hammocks for us to rest in while waiting for our planned bus ride that was not. We wound up receiving an invite to sit on the back of a truck instead; said "yes," and because of my age, Carolyn got the back and all the rain when it decided to fall. But, prior to our return to lunch and the uphill roads here and there, a person whom I thought was an "angel on a motorbike" came along. Rodolfo proved not to be the angel I thought he was though I was sincerely grateful for his ride. He asked me to take his picture after he dropped me off. The "more to tell" of this story is for another time. Anyhow, Carolyn and I sort of agreed that "whatever happens in Nicaragua, stays in Nicaragua." If there is interest in more detail, either of us would be happy to share.
4. On Sunday, the 4th of July, we left Esteli for Granada. Up at 5:45am, and 2 buses and a cab ride later, we found ourselves (after a bit of a walk) at the Oasis Hostel where there was free internet service, a free 10 minute call, and a lovely little pool. There we toured, visited a few churches, one primitive history museum, and attended Mass at the cathedral with Bishop Perez himself presiding. Of course, we called and talked with my Mom and my sister-in-law, Lorraine, and my brother, Jim. How wonderfully refreshing to hear the voices of loved ones! That night, too, we decided to make it our special supper at a fusion cuisine restaurant called "The Third Eye." It will be long remembered.
5. The morning of the 5th, we encountered several of Carolyn's Peace Corps colleagues, and what a treat to hear them from a distance talking about their shared excitement as I was using the internet nearby. Another pancake breakfast suited me fine (Blue Moon). Oh, and by the way, the best Nica coffee I had the entire week was made for me by Carolyn at her home, lest I forget - Selva Negra, I believe!
We left Granada for Laguna de Apoyo after boarding the minivan "that couldn't." Luckily, we were able to find a nearby cab after the first group got dropped off. Neither of us could wait to enjoy our swim in a volcanic lake (lowest point in Central America). There was such grandiose beauty there with the mountains surrounding the lake at Hotel La Orquidea. We saw more diversity of the birds and butterflies and hummingbirds there, too, on this "private" section where we swam. Had a lovely supper at La Abuela and I lost a 500 rummy game to my niece (definitely not a nice way to treat a guest, don't you think?)
5. After another giant Nica breakfast, we "trucked" with Mike (who owned La Orquidea) to Masaya as he headed off to register his 2 month old baby girl's birth there. We visited the local artisan markets most of the morning, and got a "hands on" feel for the market life there. Luckily we decided to return to the Laguna since the "monsoons" came upon us. The walk from the place where the bus left us off and our "home" is another very long story (for another time). It would be difficult for me to "get to the point" with this one, but know I had fun!
Holland wins; Carolyn lost this 500 rummy game (while it rained); and then we re-visited the laguna before the rains continued. Carolyn "made my evening" when SHE said she would like to play "MONOPOLIO" with me. Actually, I think this is really the 75th anniversary of Monopoly. And, yes, Aunt Frances won this one. !Que bueno!
6. Left Laguna de Apoyo after an all-night rain and some short loss of electricity. Another great Nica breakfast, a 9am departure, and many tears as I said goodbye at the airport.
In summary, I slept well, ate well, exercised much everyday, and cried a lot as I said goodbye to Carolyn. (Mom says it is good to cry.) If anyone has any questions, be sure to ask Carolyn about "her side of the story." I can never thank her enough for her infinite patience with my repeated questions; her exquisite travel plans created for me; her gift of helping me make my golden jubilee year one I'll never forget.
My intention from the beginning was simply to be with her and share in her current life. Of course, we did that and more. The "sharing" of life part included: (no particular order intended)
1. meeting some of those closest to her (Norvin and others) as well as several school colleagues (Profesoras Mariela and Elizabeth);
2. living in her home and taking advantage of her hammock along with enjoying her own special homemade breakfasts (hot oatmeal and craisins/raisins) and, lest I forget, learning there how to dance the "bachata";
3. going to class with her (Profesora Carolina) and encountering the children she teaches in one of her schools along with observing her co-teaching a lesson on the balance of nature;
4.enjoying the children singing (for me) as well as the sharing in the "fruits of the earth" like sugar cane (cana), mangoes, and lovely flowers from the children and teachers in school;
5. experiencing with her the regular long bus rides she takes (and even one minibus breakdown);
6. enjoying some of her diet of pitahaya (dragon fruit), melocoton (star fruit with and without salt), gallo pinto, avocado, plantains, mango, and papaya (to name a few);
7. knowing "intimately" the long soaking rain walks she encounters;
8. meeting lizards, special birds, mosquitoes, a scorpion, cattle, dogs and their puppies, chickens and roosters with hourly night wake-up calls, hummingbirds, cows, goats, horses, geese, pigs, and ducks on a regular basis;
9. appreciating with her the affectionate and gracious nature of the Nica people; and
10. witnessing her sincere and loving commitment as she lives out one of her many dreams.
Remember "we did that and more?" The "more" part included: (order intended by dates of travel)
1.6/30-7/1 -- Touring her site and getting to know that area along with her friends there and at the nearby school (that is, after a short ("un poco") walk and a 4 hour bus ride from the airport on Wednesday. Thursday night we enjoyed a supper with one of her Peace Corps volunteers (Jocelyn) and her father (John). (And I won't mention how happy I was to see a taxi show up at her home on 7/1 afternoon with - guess what?- my bright green duffle bag). I must admit that I was prepared to pick it up in Managua on 7/7, and simply "do without." Did I forget to mention the night choruses that made me get the giggles every so often? The night concerts consisted of the following: lizards croaking; roosters crowing all through the night (which triggered my giggles and poor Carolyn getting less sleep); which woke up the dogs who started barking (and fighting or whatever) - not to mention waking up the next door puppies who decided to tell their mother they were hungry as only puppies can; which made the happy baby next door start crying - and all of this simultaneously accompanied by certified (as in real) local music. And, by the way, cold showers never felt so good as after a hot night with musical accompaniment and no change of clothes (except for the underwear I was grateful to find in my carry-on). It's amazing how "little things" really "mean a lot." Is that how that old song goes?
2. 7/2 - Off to Esteli for a 6am bus, (2 of which and about 5 hours later) we found ourselves roaming around after we traveled through Matagalpa. We stayed at Hotel La Meson; hungrily ate at a vegetarian eatery (my first soy hamburger with freshly squeezed orange juice - scrumptious!). In between our roaming we encountered a fascinating parade with a band and some special music. We were informed that this was the funeral procession of an important local official. Great sendoff, says me! In between, we luckily found a stop for a soda during a deluge of rain. As luck would have it, we got to see the end of the Uruguay/Ghana game, with Carolyn cheering for Ghana, and with my help, unfortunately, they lost. We were both in bed by 9PM anticipating a 4:45am wake-up which (is a frog croaking phone). A super bowl of wanton soup that night was "just what the doctor ordered!"
3. 7/3 - A bumpy, lengthy bus ride (are there other kinds?) took us all the way to the Miraflor Natural Reserve in Esteli. The incredibly magnificent nature along the route made me wonder how much more beauty there was still ahead for us. The hospitable guide and family provided us with a breakfast and lunch "to die for." I had pancakes and bananas in the morning and soymeat, beans, plantains, and vegetables for a late lunch. Here we hiked through the high and intermediate forest and eventually delighted in a waterfall swim area - (so, so, so refreshing that I can still feel it). The guide almost had to drag us both out because of time (walk back, lunch, bus departure - none of which I had any sense of). And before I forget, it was wonderful spending the week without a watch!!!
Anyhow, our host family, Luis, Martha, Luisa, and Carla were more than gracious - even providing hammocks for us to rest in while waiting for our planned bus ride that was not. We wound up receiving an invite to sit on the back of a truck instead; said "yes," and because of my age, Carolyn got the back and all the rain when it decided to fall. But, prior to our return to lunch and the uphill roads here and there, a person whom I thought was an "angel on a motorbike" came along. Rodolfo proved not to be the angel I thought he was though I was sincerely grateful for his ride. He asked me to take his picture after he dropped me off. The "more to tell" of this story is for another time. Anyhow, Carolyn and I sort of agreed that "whatever happens in Nicaragua, stays in Nicaragua." If there is interest in more detail, either of us would be happy to share.
4. On Sunday, the 4th of July, we left Esteli for Granada. Up at 5:45am, and 2 buses and a cab ride later, we found ourselves (after a bit of a walk) at the Oasis Hostel where there was free internet service, a free 10 minute call, and a lovely little pool. There we toured, visited a few churches, one primitive history museum, and attended Mass at the cathedral with Bishop Perez himself presiding. Of course, we called and talked with my Mom and my sister-in-law, Lorraine, and my brother, Jim. How wonderfully refreshing to hear the voices of loved ones! That night, too, we decided to make it our special supper at a fusion cuisine restaurant called "The Third Eye." It will be long remembered.
5. The morning of the 5th, we encountered several of Carolyn's Peace Corps colleagues, and what a treat to hear them from a distance talking about their shared excitement as I was using the internet nearby. Another pancake breakfast suited me fine (Blue Moon). Oh, and by the way, the best Nica coffee I had the entire week was made for me by Carolyn at her home, lest I forget - Selva Negra, I believe!
We left Granada for Laguna de Apoyo after boarding the minivan "that couldn't." Luckily, we were able to find a nearby cab after the first group got dropped off. Neither of us could wait to enjoy our swim in a volcanic lake (lowest point in Central America). There was such grandiose beauty there with the mountains surrounding the lake at Hotel La Orquidea. We saw more diversity of the birds and butterflies and hummingbirds there, too, on this "private" section where we swam. Had a lovely supper at La Abuela and I lost a 500 rummy game to my niece (definitely not a nice way to treat a guest, don't you think?)
5. After another giant Nica breakfast, we "trucked" with Mike (who owned La Orquidea) to Masaya as he headed off to register his 2 month old baby girl's birth there. We visited the local artisan markets most of the morning, and got a "hands on" feel for the market life there. Luckily we decided to return to the Laguna since the "monsoons" came upon us. The walk from the place where the bus left us off and our "home" is another very long story (for another time). It would be difficult for me to "get to the point" with this one, but know I had fun!
Holland wins; Carolyn lost this 500 rummy game (while it rained); and then we re-visited the laguna before the rains continued. Carolyn "made my evening" when SHE said she would like to play "MONOPOLIO" with me. Actually, I think this is really the 75th anniversary of Monopoly. And, yes, Aunt Frances won this one. !Que bueno!
6. Left Laguna de Apoyo after an all-night rain and some short loss of electricity. Another great Nica breakfast, a 9am departure, and many tears as I said goodbye at the airport.
In summary, I slept well, ate well, exercised much everyday, and cried a lot as I said goodbye to Carolyn. (Mom says it is good to cry.) If anyone has any questions, be sure to ask Carolyn about "her side of the story." I can never thank her enough for her infinite patience with my repeated questions; her exquisite travel plans created for me; her gift of helping me make my golden jubilee year one I'll never forget.
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