Gallo Pinto, by Sonia

This is a guest entry by my friend, Sonia, visiting from New York.

Kipling once said “The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it” …It is March and I am in Nicaragua, the first thing I remember smelling is burning garbage. But this smell is not the “first condition” to understanding Nicaragua. The first condition is to go in with an open mind. Nicaragua is a poor, polluted and developing country but also a very interesting one. Aside from reading up on its political history, I tried to go in without any expectations and only had my brief trip to Costa Rica several years ago for any Central American travel context. I wanted the experience to just wash over me and let Carolyn lead the way. She is a great navigator of the country so if you are planning to visit, please go.

Transitioning so quickly from 45 degrees Fahrenheit in late winter NY to a steamy 95 in Managua was almost unbearable for me. Why am I wearing jeans? Why did I bring a small rolling suitcase instead of my backpack (more on that later)? Will I ever feel clean on this trip (no)? These were my initial thoughts...but getting too caught up on the heat, the bumpy roads, the dirt and grime of traveling cheaply in Nica etc. will only detract from what was ultimately a worthwhile travel experience.

After a night in the capitol, Managua, Carolyn and I took a questionable old schoolbus to her site, Matiguas. We spent a little over two days and I got to see how she lives and the work she does. The highlights of my time in her town were:

-Norvin’s mother's very tasty veg lunch she cooked for us, old-school over a wooden fire

-Getting to meet Carolyn’s friends, boyfriend and colleagues

-Visiting a pretty waterfall with Spanish moss and monkeys

-Observing Carolyn teaching at one of her schools

The heat, the insects, my watch being stolen, the stares I got from locals, and my lack of Spanish were not exactly pleasant but I think if you do visit Carolyn, it is important to see her site and see how she lives. I am so impressed by the comforts she willingly lives without. She has no water and power during the day, no hot water, nosy neighbors, no internet, a small stipend she has to stretch for the whole month etc. I am also very impressed by Carolyn’s amazing Spanish and by the work she does; micro-change and micro-development is so important and she is part of that process, right in the thick of it.

Another miserable bus ride to the capitol and then a micro-bus ride, and we are in Carolyn’s training town, Masatepe. I was able to meet her very hospitable host family and a very different region of the country. It is a larger, greener and more bustling town than Matiguas. The following day, more buses and dirt, we went to the artisan market in Masaya. The market was nice and I bought a few woven scarves, local chocolate, coffee etc. My rolling bag couldn’t make it to the less touristy, cheaper market but I was trying to do a favor and take a Gautemalan blanket back to the states for Carolyn ;) Note to self and other future visitors to Nica: bring a backpack, these roads are not made for rolling! I did appreciate that the men always helped me with my bag so there is at least one positive thing to be said for the machismo culture in Nica.

After Masaya, we made it to San Juan del Sur. It is a beachy party town, with some higher prices, expat community, surfers and so on but it was the off-season so it actually did not feel too touristy. The first night we stayed at a $5 hostel and the next night at a slightly more upscale hotel/hostel. At this point in the trip, I was a getting a little sick. In general, the trip took a real toll on my body and I recommend you spend a little money on cabs, avoid wearing jeans, slather on the sunscreen and bug spray, and definitely watch what water/food you consume to avoid feeling like I did at the end. I was able to make it to the beach at least and to a villa of Peace Corps Volunteers; the group started before Carolyn’s and was having its end of service party. San Juan del Sur is worth visiting and is a good place to relax if you need to.

On the way back to the capitol, Carolyn and I visited Volcan Masaya. You can’t see the lava but there are some great views to be had here. Also, the cave tour is great! Then, it was time to fly home after one last plate of gallo pinto and plantains. Nicaraguans might stare, invade personal space and the men might harass you, but in general the people are very warm, welcoming and kind. The food is heavy and oily but a vegetarian can get by. The country is polluted at parts but very beautiful in others. Yes it can feel unsafe to walk around alone and yes you might get something stolen, but it is seriously worth visiting. With Carolyn as your guide, you will get to see the real Nicaragua. Also, for a traveler on a budget, it is a great place to visit. Go without too many expectations, and you will not be disappointed.